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Winkie pin twisted footside

twisted footsides
Winkie pin twisted footside with two passive pairs, next to triangle. See pattern 176.

A winkie pin footside is simpler than a conventional footside. Instead of swapping worker and edge pair, the worker pair is worked through the passives, twisted, round the pin, then worked straight back across the passives to re-enter the lace. Its disadvantages is that it is not as strong as a conventional footside, and it is harder to sew to fabric. It would be easy to sew into the passives, which are not really part of the rest of the lace, and might pull out. If you sew into a winkie pin footside, make sure that the needle goes through the pinhole so it picks up the worker pair (which does connect to the rest of the lace).

The winkie pin footside is perhaps easier to understand than the conventional footside, so sometimes beginners are taught it, and you can replace a conventional footside by a winkie pin footside. However, if you want to follow a particular lace tradition, then you should follow its type of footside. Anyway, it is not that hard to understand a conventional footside!

This is a twisted winkie pin footside. The diagram shows one passive pair. The photo above shows two passive pairs. You can use as many as you want.

Pattern for footside
Footside pattern

Traditionally, the pattern for a footside is a simple line of pinholes down the edge of the lace. This may be shifted slightly away from the rest of the lace, to give room for the passives. The passives themselves are not marked. You can see that the pattern does not show you what type of footside it is. I find this rather confusing, so in my patterns, I mark the workers and the passives.

This diagram shows each thread as a line. The stitches used in this footside are cloth stitch and twist and twist single pair. The details of each stitch are not shown in detail below - follow the links in the previous sentence if you are not familiar with them.

twisted footside

Repeat Step Back

Working: The diagram shows this footside with one passive pair. To work this, you have two pairs. The passive pair is on the right, and the left pair, coming in from the lace, is the worker pair. There is no edge pair.

You work the left pair from the lace across the passive pair in cloth stitch and twist. Twist the worker pair an extra time if you want (see below). Now you place the footside pin between the worker pair and the passive pair. Then work the worker pair back through the passive pair, again in cloth stitch and twist.

The photo shows two passive pairs. The footside is worked in the same way, except you work across both passive pairs, round the pin, then back again.

A winkie pin footside produces a slightly wobbly edge rather than a straight line. This might be considered a disadvantage, or you might prefer the look! If you do not twist the workers an extra time at the pin, then the passives sit close to the edge. If you twist the workers twice (as in the diagram) or even more, then you get a little loop at the pin, a bit like a picot, which can be quite attractive.

If you are working a cloth triangle next to the footside, then you can take the worker pair of the triangle right out past the passives, round the pin, and back into the triangle. This happens every second row. It makes a sharp left edge to the triangle, and a strong connection to the footside. See the triangle description for a further explanation.